Thomas Ashworth
Why the Wharfe suits a gentler kind of walking
The River Wharfe is one of the friendliest rivers in the country for anyone who wants a walk without a climb. It rises high in the Yorkshire Dales and then settles into a long, easy journey through meadows, pastures and wooded banks, and for much of that journey the path runs beside the water on ground that is close to level. There is no summit to reach, no scramble to negotiate, and no pressure to keep going. The river simply carries you along, and when you have had enough you turn round and walk back the way you came.
That flatness matters more than it might sound. A riverside path gives you the feeling of being properly out in the countryside — curlews calling in spring, the smell of damp grass, a dipper working its way upstream — without asking anything heroic of your knees, your lungs or your balance. Walking beside water also has a natural rhythm to it. You tend to slow down, watch the current, and stop for no particular reason at all.
Choosing your stretch before you set out
The Wharfe is long, and not every section is gentle. Gravel tracks give way to rougher ground, and some stretches climb steeply away from the water. The trick is to choose deliberately rather than assume. Two areas are reliably kind, and both make a comfortable half-day.
- Burnsall and the surrounding meadows. Around the village green and the old bridge there is a network of level paths through riverside fields, with mown grass underfoot and drystone walls for shelter. A gentle out-and-back of a mile or two is easy to plan, and the wide green by the bridge is a lovely place to sit and watch the water slide under the arches.
- Ilkley riverside. Close to town, the path along the Wharfe is largely tarmac and compacted gravel, broad enough for two people to walk side by side. It is flat, short in sections, and handily close to a car park, public toilets and places to buy a cup of tea.
- Grassington towards Linton. Slightly more undulating, but still short and rewarding, with the sound of the falls always somewhere ahead.
Distances of two to four miles are plenty. On a riverside walk the scenery does not reward mileage; it rewards attention.
What the ground is actually like underfoot
In most places, expect a mix. Near villages you will usually find tarmac, easy on a walking frame, a pushchair or a wheelchair with a reasonably sturdy wheel. Further out the surface becomes gravel, then mown grass, then sometimes a trodden earth path that softens after rain. Tree roots can lift a path near old willows, and a few sections have a slight camber towards the water, so take your time on wet days.
Gates and stiles vary by stretch. Some routes are entirely gate-free and stile-free; others have a couple of kissing gates, which most people manage without difficulty. If you use a mobility aid, it is worth checking the specific stretch with a local information point before you travel, because access changes from one field to the next.
Benches, bridges and the art of stopping
One of the quiet pleasures of the Wharfe is how often you are invited to sit down. Benches appear on village greens, at bridge ends and at viewpoints along the town paths. A simple rhythm works well: walk for fifteen or twenty minutes, then sit for ten. You will cover the same gentle distance but arrive far less tired, and you will notice far more.
Useful things to carry include a flask, a waterproof folded into the bottom of a bag, and a light folding stool if benches are uncertain. Bring binoculars if you have them. Herons, grey wagtails and the occasional kingfisher all reward a slow, still observer, and the shallows near the bridges are full of small fish.
Where a path meets the water, children and dogs will want to paddle. The Wharfe is beautiful but not always benign: currents can be strong, rocks are slippery, and levels rise quickly after rain in the hills. Keep to the edge, keep hold of small hands, and never swim where you cannot see the bottom.
Making a slower day of it
Slow rural living is less about doing less and more about doing one thing properly. Arrive mid-morning, when the mist is still lifting off the water. Park, walk half a mile, sit on a bench, then walk back and eat a long lunch in a village pub or from a picnic bench overlooking the river. Add a short wander around the churchyard, or a browse in a village shop, and you have a full and satisfying day without a single strenuous step.
The seasons each offer something. Spring brings lambs and new leaves, summer brings buttercups and long evenings, autumn turns the beeches gold and the river runs clear, and winter gives you frost on the walls and the water running high and brown. Winter walks are often the quietest and the most atmospheric, provided you start early and finish before dusk.
Practicalities worth knowing
- Footwear. Trainers are fine on the tarmac stretches; waterproof boots or wellies are better on grass and after rain.
- Parking and buses. Village car parks fill quickly at weekends and bank holidays. Several Wharfe villages are served by buses, which lets you walk one way and ride back.
- Toilets and refreshments. Plan around a village with public toilets and a shop or café, particularly if you are walking with children or anyone who needs regular stops.
- Dogs. Keep them on a lead near livestock and around nesting birds, and carry bags for the bin.
- Weather and river levels. Check a forecast for the hills as well as the valley; rain upstream can raise the river within hours.
- Signal. Mobile coverage is patchy in places, so tell someone your rough plan and expected return time.
Above all, treat the walk as a destination rather than a route. Sit when you want to, turn back when you feel like it, and let the river set the pace.
